Whats the Average Number of a Series in Art
There can be a lot of mystery when you go to purchase paints, peculiarly if information technology's your outset time buying a particular medium.
But to start with, when you expect at the wall of paint at your local fine art supply store you lot'll see many different brands. So inside each brand you'll notice different series numbers, and sometimes even different series numbers within what looks to be the aforementioned color.
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And then what do these paint serial numbers mean?
The curt and simple answer is that the lower the series number ("Serial i" for example) the cheaper the paint will be. As the number goes college, so will the cost.
Having worked in an art supply store for a very long time, I'm no longer surprised when art students, working artists, and fifty-fifty art professors inquire about paint series numbers.
The main thing to go along mind with paint, though (and it doesn't matter whether you're buying acrylic, oil, watercolor, or gouache) is that paint series numbers are primarily a pricing strategy. You cannot necessarily make assumptions on the quality of paint based purely on the pigment serial number.
Paint serial numbers exist so that the company which manufactures that paint does non charge you too much for a colour that is inexpensive to produce, or lose their shirt on a colour that costs a lot to produce.
If you're just starting to paint, you will probably demand several specific colors to fill out your palette, only information technology's upwardly to you lot whether or non you buy all of your colors in the same make of paint.
Equally you lot compare dissimilar brands, you will notice that sure colors are in the aforementioned serial number regardless of blazon or brand of pigment.
For example, yellow ochre pigment tends to be "Series 1" regardless of whether you buy a tube of Gilt acrylic paint or Winsor & Newton watercolor. It'due south simply NOT an expensive color to produce.
On the other mitt, you'll find cobalt blueish paint is always on the higher end, typically a "Series iv" regardless of brand or style of pigment. That'south because it's a more expensive color to produce.
Understanding "pure" colors and "hues"
As well checking the serial number, at that place are more things to explore before you purchase your paint. You should always look at the actual pigment being used. The front of the tube may say one affair, while the pigments listed on the dorsum of the tube are something unlike.
For instance, if yous wait at a tube of Gamblin'south Quinacridone Carmine (Series 3) yous will see the pigment listed as "Quinacridone Red b (PV19)." Because there is but i pigment listed, this is considered a "pure" colour. Pure colors are great for mixing, considering they won't dingy as fast as "hues" or "mixtures."
If yous await at Gamblin's Naples Yellow Hue (series two), you volition see the pigments listed as Zinc Oxide (PW4), Concentrated Cadmium Sulfide (PY37), and Natural Hydrated Iron Oxide (PY43). This item color is a mix of 3 pigments, which when put together appear to be a new colour.
The start clue that this is not a "pure" color is the fact that the name of the color has the give-and-take "hue" on it. When it comes to artist's paint, the word "hue" references the fact that the pigment is a mix of colors, not a single pigment.
Mixes are made for many reasons. In the case of Naples Yellow, a hue is produced because the original pigment for this colour (which was used by the masters every bit far back as the 1600s) is at present considered toxic.
People who've studied the masters and want to paint like them notwithstanding want this color—so paint manufacturers get in available by mixing other colors to create a "hue" with the appearance of Naples Yellow.
For other colors, hues are made because the original pigment doesn't mix well with the medium existence used, like acrylic. A popular pigment in oil pigment might not work with the acrylic polymer emulsion to turn it into an acrylic paint, and so a hue is created.
Another reason is only convenience, of grade. If y'all are a mural painter, you'll need to mix the color green over and over and over, yet each time you mix it, it will be slightly unlike no affair how careful you are. But a paint manufacturer can mix the paint and deliver the same colour to y'all in each and every tube. You can save time and materials by buying these pre-mixed colors instead of trying to achieve an identical color on your own.
Lastly, paint manufacturers create "hues" or "mixtures" in club to salvage y'all money.
Let's say for example you desire to pigment a giant canvas with a base coat of Cerulean Blue (series 6). That would probably exist a lot of money for a colour that is generally going to be covered up by other paint.
The better selection would be to go with Cerulean Blue Hue (series 2) which is fabricated up of Zinc Oxide and Pthalo Blue. Information technology isn't really Cerulean Blueish, but it certain looks like information technology. For this purpose, a mixture is a perfect solution.
Keep in mind that you might still want to consider the original (series 6) for your main palette when you lot're washed painting the background, because that hue may not mix with other colors like your color theory course taught you it should.
Call back of it this style. . . when you mix real Cerulean Blue and real Cadmium Yellowish Medium, each of those paints contains a unmarried pigment, so you're just mixing two colors. There's nothing else to muddy up the pigment.
However, if yous utilise hues of those colors, you lot are often mixing every bit many equally six colors, since each colour is made up of iii pigments each. The more pigments that are being mixed together, the faster your color will turn muddy and dark-brown.
I'll leave y'all with one final example. . . I personally like to buy an acrylic convenience mixture called Lite Blue Permanent (Series 1).
On the back, there are 3 pigments listed, Copper Phthalocyanine, Chlorinated Copper Phthalycyanine, and Titanium Dioxide. I buy this color oftentimes, because information technology's great as a base color for skies. I don't really mix with it, but it's a good, inexpensive base layer.
So the side by side time yous're in the art store purchasing paint, check the back of the tubes to run across what pigments are included, and don't forget to compare different brands and serial numbers to run across where your dollar will make more of a difference.
The more yous consider how you plan to use a specific colour, the better you'll be able to make an informed opinion nearly which tube is best for you.
For more articles by Maureen, please visit lostinwonderart.blogspot.com.
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Source: https://emptyeasel.com/2012/02/27/understanding-paint-series-numbers-and-pigments-when-buying-artists-paint/
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